Pair of New-Old-Stock 36-Hole Wolber Super Champion Aspin 700c (Tubular) Rims

Description

Pair of New-Old-Stock 36-Hole Wolber Super Champion Aspin 700c (Tubular) Rims
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Product Description:
This offering is for a factory matched pair of new-old-stock Wolber Super Champion Aspin 700c tubular rims with 36 holes (w/ eyelets). I am calling these offerings factory matched pairs, because each pair is still shrink wrapped in plastic and they came to me in tall Wolber labeled crates (where these matched pairs are neatly stacked on top of one another to preserve their condition). Now the tops of these crates have been opened, so they were not sealed when I unloaded them off the container coming over from Europe, but all the factory packing is still there and the crates themselves were still in decent condition (so each pair of rims is still factory new).
As most reviewing this listing probably already know, these are very good quality hard anodized tubular rims coming out of France in the 90's. I am not sure of their exact production window, but I am fairly confident it began and ended in the decade of the 90's. Some technical specifications include the following...
Rim type:
36-hole tubular w/double wall and presta valve
Rim size (diameter):
700c (or 622 mm)
Rim width (inner/outer):
14.5 mm / 20.5 mm
Rim height:
12.5 mm
Weight (Park hanging scale):
1 lbs 10 oz (or 0.74 kgs) for the pair...so 13 oz (or 0.37 kgs) for each rim
Other notes:
The eyelets noted at the spoke holes are a nice feature, as they reinforce/strengthen this high stress area of the rim. The hard anodized gray finish on the rims still shows well, but I am seeing some slightly different shades of gray on some of these matched pairs. I realize this won't be noticeable when the rims are built-up into wheels and mounted on a bike, but it's still sometimes noticeable when these matched pairs are shrink wrapped in plastic together (so thought I would still point it out).
As noted above, these factory matched rim pairs are very good quality with double-wall construction (among other features highlighted above). I also discuss above the fact that these matched pairs came to me in their original Wolber labeled crates (and still shrink wrapped in plastic), so let me just confirm one more time their functional and cosmetic condition is still factory new.
Supplemental discussion…conventional (older stock) wheel design…
Our expertise when it comes to wheels is really no better than an amateur or enthusiast. Although, we still wanted to share a few thoughts and observations with respect to wheels based on our limited experience. This discussion is probably best characterized as only providing basic information, but hopefully some folks still find the information beneficial.
Rim:
Double-wall rims tend to be stronger (although to what degree is often debated...and subject to other factors like rim design and lacing), because there is an additional interior wall connected to the sidewalls. Single-wall rims are usually lighter and not as strong/durable, because they do not have the added interior support noted in a double-wall rim. Taller/deeper rims tend to be more aerodynamic, but the trade-off is they are generally stiffer. We measure the depth of a rim by taking a rim height measurement...so the higher this number, the greater the rim depth. The number of spoke holes contributes to the strength of a wheel...with more spokes generally resulting in a stronger wheel. There can be some weight savings with rims designed to accomodate fewer spokes, but the savings is usually minimal, because thicker/heavier rims are generally needed to compensate for fewer spokes. Good quality rims will also include eyelets at spoke holes to reinforce this area of the rim against cracking/failure when the wheel is under stress. Additionally, narrower rims are spec'd with narrower tires that usually need to be inflated to a higher pressure. This too generally results in a faster wheel with less rolling resistance, but the trade-off is a harsher ride.
Spokes:
The size of a spoke is generally specified in terms of it's wire gauge. The lower the wire gauge, the greater the spoke diameter. As a result, rims built with spokes having a lower wire gauge are generally going to produce stronger wheels. Additionally, spokes machined with a uniform wire gauge are referred to as straight gauge, while spokes machined with multiple wire gauges (generally a lower gauge/thicker wire at the ends and a higher gauge/thinner wire in the middle) are referred to as butted spokes. The latter provides benefits similar to those realized with butted frame tubes. More specifically, the thicker wire at the spoke ends improves strength at the high stress areas of a wheel. While the thinner wire in the middle provides modest weight savings and some added resiliency against direct/localized stress on a wheel. In other words, a thinner wire gauge at the middle of a spoke allows for some added flex in a wheel, which permits some distribution of localized stress to neighboring spokes. This effect is subtle, but appears to have some merit in reducing the likelihood of rims cracking around spoke holes.
Spoke pattern (lacing):
Conventional spoke patterns are labeled according to the number of times a spoke crosses other spokes connected to the same flange on a hub. For example, a "cross-3" pattern is probably the most common among conventional (old stock) wheels and describes a wheel where each spoke "crossess" three other spokes on it's way from the rim to the hub. This conventional spoke pattern is also referred to as a semi-tanget pattern, because spokes generally leave/enter the flange area of a hub at (or near) a tanget. Higher cross rates/numbers generally result in a wheel that effectively handles the twisting forces generated from low gear pedaling at high effort or the heavy use of hub brakes. A "cross-0" pattern (also known as radial lacing) is where spokes enter/exit a hub flange at a near perpendicular angle. As a result, no spokes cross each other when lacing in a radial pattern. This allows for shorter spokes and a slightly lighter wheel, but there are some strength/build issues associated with radial lacing that generally limits this pattern to front wheels only (and again, this discussion is focued primarily on the conventional/older stock wheels).
I understand we have only begun to touch on wheel design with the above comments, but hopefully the basic information is a good starting point for some folks in the beginning stages of shopping for wheels.
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